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Clavicula sine exceptione — No rule without exception! THMs top-line, full-carbon crank with integrated carbon axle is engineered like no other. In development they focused on optimizing its geometrical and structural definition, based on a precise analysis of load paths. As a result, it is extraordinarily stiff in all planes, exactly what’s required for loss-free power transmission.
They are particularly proud of the patented connection between left-hand crank and axle — THM is the first to successfully productionize a carbon-to-carbon interface at the heart of the bicycle drive train. Aligning the fibers of the external and internal splines reduces wear to near zero and eliminates noise. And, of course, it’s lighter, 293 g with spider. Clavicula SE beats all of THMs own benchmarks and is the new reference in crank design.
It fits any frame with standard 68 mm BSA shell. Available for BB30, BB30A, Pressfit30, Shimano Pressfit, Italian threading, BB386 EVO, BBright-Pressfit. BBright Direct Fit (only Cervelo frame R5ca) and BB 386 (only AX Lightness frame ViAL EVO) also available.
Weight: about 302g (130mm) / 293g (110mm)
Diameter axle: 30 mm
BCD: 5 bolt 110 mm or 130 mm
Q-Factor: 148 mm
Chainline: 43.5 mm
Inner width of the cranks: 118 mm
Available lengths: 170 / 172.5 / 175mm
Max. permissible total weight (rider + bicycle + luggage): 120kg
7 reviews for THM Carbones Clavicula SE road crank with an average rating of 4.4/5 points.
stiff, lightweight, gorgeous The best crank in the world! Very stiff, superlight, gorgeous. The 172.5mm crank with matt finish weight just 395g ap.. Currently, it's the lightest crank I have ever seen. Once combined with carbon-ti chain rings, you get the best crankset! ★★★★★ Rex
Really nice to fast shipping and great support. ★★★★★ Kane
Siffness and Lightweight ★★★★★ macrogun
read above 2 flaws in this crankset:
1. SPACER CONE, THAT GETS INSERTED INSIDE THE AXLE ON THE NONE DRIVE SIDE. The plastic cone is too wide & what ends up happening is that once it is inserted in the BB, it is so tight that once the crankset is assembled and spin the crankset, it will only do 1/2 a revolution, which indicated that the plastic is preventing the bearings from spinning & it even gets worst when you start pedaling, as if the brakes are being applied. So what you will have to do is take the spacer cone and sand it down w/ a sand paper in the outside to remove the excess plastic. Once you achieve by removing the right amount of plastic, watch it spin freely, the way it should be.
2. COVER PLATE: The cover plate that is in the non-drive side has so much stress during the pedaling process. The plate is what keeps the crankset whole or intact, (FYI, that pinch bolt that is attached to the non-drive side crank arm does nothing) so every time your: == standing up and rocking the bike left / right & your right foot is at 6 o clock and the frame is leaning to the right, at that point you are actually pulling the HEAD plate with your feet, & at that point the head plate & nut end that gets screwed in the axle will separate (it will take time, for me about 3000 miles). == the other one, is when you're doing a very sharp cornering to the left, and take your body and lean to the right & your feet at 6 o clock. Luckily when the head plate separated from the nut end, I was on the flats (all I heard as if a coin fell on the ground and I was like, what was that, till 3 block later I noticed the head gone and I thought that the whole thing came loose and fell off, while in actuality, it broke in half). & I was surprised that the non-drive side crank did not come off for the next 10 miles (please note, the non-drive side crank will come loose and the crankset will come off the frame at some point, so go straight home, do not finish your ride). Can you just imagine if that were to happen on the turns or during a climb. Also the nut end, will not be a problem removing it inside the axle, you can just take an Allan wrench to remove it.
After this happens, you will not be able to ride your bike till you replace the part. So since this happened, it is safe to say, you best purchase several of these plates, as this will be a REOCCURRING PROBLEM.
Bottomline, if my AX Lightness frame, could accept a Campagnolo crankset, I would do a way with this product, as well as these light components as they are nothing but a headache, even thou light in weight, they either don't function properly or don't function at all, longevity is an issue & not to mention poor quality. In the end you're just throwing money away. NO offense to the Germans, the idea & concept is great, but there are flaws to the ideas that are not address during the R&D phase, but then again, I believe they are aware of these flaws and just don't care.
Zero Complaints. I have two sets and have not had one single problem over thousands of miles. They are incredibly light, stiff, and in my view the best looking cranks on the market. Of course I did not trust myself to install these myself and had my mechanic do it (he's been working on bikes for probably 40 years), so that may be why I've never had an issue. ★★★★★ Tim
a must for all ww machines i bought the compact 170mm crank length, came in mass wise a few grammes heavier than advertised but my scales are basic things. very happy with the crankset put the extralite chain rings on with kcnc bolts looks old school boss. only thing for me is the thm crankset for the bb30a. it is 100g ish that eats into those vital mass loses on a 4 kilo bike. stiff enough for me but i have over cooked noodles for legs a must for all ww machines ★★★★★ rotten rouleur
++++++absolutely recommended for weightweenies Just the product for anyone who watches weight and wants reliability on carbon. ★★★★★ Ivan